Metallic Thread Info

[Judi]

This is what I saved from a web site that is no longer operational. It explains about metallic threads.

I hope it is useful to you.

This is Part 1 because I cannot upload as the file is too large.

Cheers
Judi


EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT METAL THREADS


by Kay Montclare

Have you ever seen the beautiful garments that priests and some clergymen wear? These ecclesiastical garments typically are decorated in places with gold and silver embroidery done in "metal threads". Garments in Japan, China, Thailand, India and other Oriental countries also are decorated in these lovely threads. Metal threads, however, can be very intimidating and even if you are an experienced embroiderer the chances are that you avoid using them because they must be treated differently from those which you ordinarily use. This article will be of help as it explains the differences in the threads and something about the techniques for using each of them. Even though they are classified as "threads" some of them are combinations of materials put together to make a new unit which will not go through a fabric as we know threads will, but for our purposes here we will refer to each of them as "threads".


Metal threads commonly come in the following categories:

1. PASSING This thread was originally named for "passing over the surface" of any ground but has now come to be known as a thread small enough, and durable enough , to go in and out of the ground and be sewn. If it is not sewn it is couched with only the ends plunged into the fabric.

SMOOTH PASSING- A flat, extremely thin wire, typically wound around a thread core in a spiral manner. Thread is slightly stiff and not fluid.

WAVY PASSING- Also known as Glace'. Same construction as smooth passing but goes through the fabric with difficulty because of a slight crimp.

2. TAMBOUR A very fine passing thread which is used for sewing.

3. JAPANESE GOLD Commonly known as "Jap", this thread is the only metal thread used in Oriental embroidery. Coming in many sizes, it was originally made of real gold beaten into a sheet thinner than paper

Which was then cut into very narrow strips and wound in a spiral manner around a core of silk. While real gold is still available at a very high price, the most common Jap now on the market is imitation, and instead of gold it may either be an alloy or a metallized polyester bonded to a paper base. The core can either be rayon or silk, depending on the manufacturer, but one works just as well as the other so it is not important to specify. Colors of the tread can vary from bright and brassy to a warm pinkish gold. Sizes come in 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, ans 13, 2 being the very fine and 13 the very heavy. Always couched, usually in pairs of two threads, best wound on a Koma. (See below)

4. CRINKLE Also know as "Rococo", this is a wavy thread which must be couched. Flat metal wound around a thread core, it is similar to passing thread until it is crimped on a machine. Comes in about four different sizes.

5. LUREX A term mistaken for a thread, the word "lurex" is a copyrighted name for a manmade synthetic. Many different threads are made of Lurex and some are simply known as Lurex followed by a number. Lurex is not a thread construction but a material of which the thread is made. Lurex is used in threads in categories 1, 2, 9, 10 and 11.

6. PEARL PURL Also known as "Jaceron" this unique thread is actually a stiff wire which has been wound in a spiral around a thin tubular form, resulting in a hollow spring-like coil. It is often difficult for the novice to differentiate between Purl and Pearl Purl. Just remember that Pearl Purl is stiff and firm while Purl is fluid and soft and easily manipulated.

[Judi]

Part 2

7. PURL Often called "bullion" this is a hollow coil which must be handled in a very gentle manner. It is a fragile corkscrew of soft pliable wire which once distorted cannot be restored to the original shape. Most often cut into tiny pieces and used just as you would use beads It comes in three finishes:

A- SMOOTH PURL- made of a flat wire with a bright, shiny reflecting surface, this is perfectly round.
B- CHECK PURL- also called "Frize" this is a flat thin wire wound tightly around a triangular form. The tightness is then released resulting in a facetted thread that reflects light with a shimmer and sparkle.
C- ROUGH PURL- also called "matte" this is made from a round wire, instead of flat wire, resulting in a slightly dull surface with little reflection.

8. BRAID There are two types of braid, flat and hollow, which in turn come in different sizes. Use sparingly, watch quality as some can look rather sleazy depending on content.

9. CORD Cords come in a wide variety of materials, sizes, shapes and construction. They can be many cords intertwined, single cords braided around a single core, or a flat single band of Lurex wound around a heavy core. Different number designations are used on some cords. For example, 4 x 2 means that 4 threads are twisted together, and then 2 of these are twisted together again. 4 x 2 x 2 means that 2 of the 4 x 2 cords are twisted together again to make an even larger cord. The numbers, no matter what they are, tells you the number of strands and how many twists there are in the cord you are buying.

10.TWIST Twists are made up of individual Passing threads of varying numbers wound together, with the resulting cords wound together again to make even larger cords. Used mainly for textured effects where little reflection is desired.
GRECIAN TWIST-- this unusual thread is made with strands of bright gold and dull gold twisted together for a striped effect.

11. PLATE As the name implies, this is a narrow band of metal, sometimes cut in strips and sometimes wound on a spool. This material takes an experienced hand to manipulate and is better avoided until you have mastered the other threads. Comes plain or embossed.

12. WIRE This is exactly what the name states, it is wire. It can be colored wire for beading, used for fastening other metal threads or it can be couched. It is much too stiff for stitching but usually comes in several colors.


HINTS AND TIPS FOR USING METAL THREADS


When you purchase metal threads you will sometimes see the name "gilt" used in the name. This is not a connotation of tinsel quality but refers to the fact that the thread has first been plated with silver and then with gold. It denotes a high quality finish on the thread
All metal thread work should be done on a frame with the fabric taut at all times.
Most handmade metal threads can be hand washed, but like all needlework should be treated gently at all costs. Dry cleaning is never recommended for any needlework. No threads made in Japan should be exposed to either process.
Any metal thread that is wrapped around a core should be handled with the greatest care as once the outer layer has started to unwind there is not way to restore the original character of the thread.
Purls are especially fragile and must be treated with extra care. They can be extended by gentle pulling but once this is done the thread will not retract to the original length.
Most metallic threads are "couched" onto the surface of the ground fabric, that is they are laid flat on the surface and fastened by stitching over and over with a silk thread to hold the metallic in place. Couching stitches are always laid at right angles to the thread that is being couched. Obviously, when you couch a thread onto a fabric the cut ends of that couched thread are exposed and so a small hole is made in the fabric with a large needle or a stiletto and the ends are gently worked to the back of the fabric. This is called "plunging".
When using Jap it is best wound on Koma. Koma look like the old wooden spools that, in years past, were used to hold sewing thread, except that Koma are square so they will not roll like the sewing spools did. This is for a very good reason. To use Koma you wind it with a supply of Jap; if you are couching two rows at a time you would wind two Koma. When couching either one or two rows, the tension of the thread is maintained by the manipulation of the Koma with the left hand while stitching with the right. Koma are much more satisfactory than fabric or felt tubes as these tend to slip. Do NOT try to roll Jap into a ball!.
Two layers of fabric are not necessary for the laying of metal threads unless you need the second layer for supporting a very fine ground fabric and are using real gold which is heavy. Man-made threads are quite light in weight.
Do not use silk embroidery floss for couching metal threads. Use a fine quality Japanese hand sewing silk. Also it is not necessary to wax the thread for strength. Silk is one of nature's strongest fibers, stronger that steel, and wax discolors the thread.
Real silver threads will tarnish, real gold ones will not.
Use a special pair of scissors to cut metal threads and use them for no other purpose. The metal will chew up scissor blades and make them unusable for any other embroidery. Disposable blade cutters and single edge razor blades can also be used, carefully.
A piece of heavy felt on your cutting surface helps when cutting metallics. Its sponginess lets you hold the metallic in place with your fingers while snipping the threads with your scissors without damaging the shape of the thread itself. It also prevents the threads from jumping around when cut.
A pair of pointed tweezers is a great help when handing metal thread.
Before cutting any multi-stranded Twist or Cord, wrap a piece of scotch or masking tape completely around the thread on both sides of the place where it will be cut. Be sure the tape overlaps itself so that when you make the cut neither piece will unravel.
Purl can be cut in tiny pieces and used just as you would a bead.
Look at some ecclesiastical pieces to see what you can do with metal threads.
Don't be afraid to try this beautiful type of embroidery. It only takes practice and patience.